They only leak when its running and build pressure. your leak on the passenger side is more than likely that line. Ive replaced both of mine with 3/8 fuel line and worm gear clamps. 6. There is a coolant line on both sides of the motor going to the turbo.6.5L Turbo Diesel - Tech Support - Troubleshooting - Performance.However the "MAP timing" compensation table is still inop, we may have to wait for that one. After working with the EFI gang for a couple of weeks, they finally got these "compensation" tables revived for me personally on all OS's, so folks can start using them (they were inert from the factory). I guess what I am saying is that longevity is traded off much quicker with tunes that do not compensate for dynamically changing heat and load conditions, but especially heat. It drives home the importance of tuning with some kind pressure sensing equipment, under real world stress, off-the-dyno type monitoring. Buy in monthly payments with Affirm on orders over 50. Please be aware that there may be a delay in shipping. Will This Fit Your Rig Please Note: Factory OEM EGR Valve 11-13 6.6L LML GM Duramax is currently backordered. Peak cp's increase and advance as the load is held constant. SKU : GM-12643238 Factory OEM EGR Valve 11-13 6.6L LML GM Duramax. But when the throttle is left open (forgive the gas analogy) for more than a few secs, as in plowing, or towing, that same timing starts really escalating cylinder pressure, due to the ignition advancing effects of load and heat accumulation. What happens is that this combination my be pseudo-ok for quick launches, and dyno indications, and otherwise non-heatsoak motor conditions. In my own tuning, I have had caution buzzing in the back of my head, with the realization that this is a potentially lethal combination for cylinder pressure. (Image 21) Step 31: Using the last large hose clamp, install the loose end of the 3/8 coolant line into the heater hose running into the. Using one of the larger hose clamps, install the barbed tting into the front coolant line, which was previously attached to the front EGR cooler. i have been reading about some of the large pulse widths, in combination with some pretty staggering timing advance numbers. tting to the front coolant line near the thermostat. This is no remark toward any individual, just a comment on custom tuning. You could probably use it as a daily driver for quite a while this way.īasically, you are working WITH the problem, allowing it to purge. In lieu of evans, you could use 90% EG, that would have little vapor pressure at normal loads and temps. You could go to a coolant with a high BP, like evans, and then drill out the cap, venting it to the atmosphere, that will give the excess gas a place to go, without pushing coolant out. So if you have some highly advanced timing, it may help to retard it, but that is a band aid at best. That influence of migrating cylinder pressure stands to push out coolant, and the only way to stem that, is to reduce cylinder pressure. In reality, if you removed them, your truck would never warm up in colder weather, and would take an hour in warm weather. Thermostat type, or lack of, should not have any impact on that. With gasket issues, the cylinder pressurizes the cooling system. Good morning, I have another leak in the lower left coolant hose that connects to an aluminum 3/4' or. Install a 10 blocker plate at the up pipe flange, then bypass the coolant lines to/fro the cooler, check and see. and in a quick.SNIP, I cut the small lower hose in two.I read your other thread. Usually, external leaks in that area stems from a hose or the quick connect fitting (item 3 and 1 below). I went into the kitchen and grabbed these big scissors we have, that cut just about anything. Next, pop off the clamp that secures the smaller hose ,to the larger one. Then pop off the front plastic skid plate to get access to the lower radiator hose area. I'm not a big fan of altering OEM stuff, but sometimes you have no choice.įirst thing to do is jack up your truck, and get some room to work with. NOTE: Some may flame me for what I am about to describe doing. Even removing the lower radiator hose looks like both a pain in the rear, and a guaranteed mess maker, with coolant spraying everywhere. I looked into not so convenient ways like block drain plugs, to no avail. My LML only has 45k miles, but its 5 years old, and time to service the cooling system.Īs many of you know, GM in its infinite wisdom did away with any convenient way to drain the cooling system by deleting the radiator petcock.
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